Sunday, February 6, 2011

Shawarma and Old Christmas Candy

Marhaba! 'Twas a great day spent wandering the worn stone paths of the Old City. I cannot step into those walls without being refreshingly overwhelmed by the smells, the colors, the sounds. The streets are lined with the quiet, elderly women sitting behind their huge bags of varying herbs, strawberries, dates, spice shops, cigarette smoke, falafel, perfumes, bakeries, and so many more smells I can't even express! Two eyes isn't always enough, especially when I'm watching my feet so I don't trip over the protruding stones that sneak up: The faces of the people, golden trinkets, beautiful fabrics, ....less beautiful fabrics, skirts and scarves of every color imaginable, camel leather sandals, .the architecture. And the sounds! Words of kindness from many. "You are Mormon." Not a question. The different languages, the quiet friendship between a food vendor and a regular local, bargaining, religion and sometimes even silence. I think I dropped some of my heart today as we wandered, and I doubt I'll ever find it; no, it will just stay there forever.

Today we walked down the Via Dolorosa route, the route that is said to have been where Jesus walked during and after his condemnation and trial, etc. It was a very interesting experience. For sure it was a great reminder of Christ's sacrifice for me, but I guess I just appreciate that as a latter-day saint, I don't have to live in the past in the same way many people here choose to. I look forward with such a brightness and excitement for the return of my Savior and King.

After we just shopped around a little--I'm getting better at bargaining techniques :D We moseyed through places randomly, went grocery shopping for Kristen (she needed brownie mix for FHE), hit up a bakery some of the girls I was with knew and liked--and for good reason-- and finally got lunch! Shawarma and falafel. I'd had falafel in the city before, so I thought I'd try shawarma today. It was very good indeed.

We decided to eat lunch on some steps off to the right of where we were that led up to local housing and such. As we were sitting down, a woman in blue leopard print slippers was standing in a doorway. We politely said hello and she offered to take our picture for us. She was really just so nice. :) Anyway, she pretty much asked us, "Why do you eat on the dirty stairs? Come sit in my house and eat." So, so touching. She's was the sweetest. We mildly protested, not wanting to intrude, but she insisted, and in a way that made me feel like she saw it almost as.. an honor.. to have us in her house.

In we went. It smelled of smoke but not overwhelmingly so. Her house was just lovely. Not big by any means of course, but so gorgeous still. Her ceiling is carved out of the stone that builds the whole building her home is in... if that makes sense. Anyway, she sat with us as we ate, offered us coffee and tea (though we explained we don't drink either), so she happily got us water. .. I don't think that I have ever experienced such ready and genuine hospitality, especially from a complete stranger. It was truly a touching experience. She told us a bit about her family, and left the room to go get a bowl of left-over Christmas chocolates she still had around. I noticed she apologized to us for how few chocolates there were left, though there were easily enough for each of us to have one, as though she were embarrassed to not seem fully prepared for spontaneous company. What a sweet soul. What an amazing experience. What a blessing all the kind people of this city are in my life.

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